Donatella Versace authored the defining moment of Milan fashion week on Friday with a blockbuster show honoring her late brother Gianni which closed with a surprise supermodel reunion that brought the cheering crowd to its feet.
Security guards had to brush back the audience when it rushed the catwalk once a white curtain at the head of the room peeled back at the show's close to reveal the guests of honor. Out stepped Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer in gold lame as the George Michael anthem "Freedom '90" pounded from the sound system.
Each of the women-all now in their 40s or 50s-had personally worked with Gianni during their years on the runway. "Gianni this is for you," a voice declared throughout the show, which featured a greatest hits of the murdered designer's canon. There were his iconic baroque designs on dress and trouser combinations, a glittering number bearing Andy Warhol's pop art Marilyn Monroe and rock'n'roll leather adorned with shimmering tassels.
Broad, square-shouldered suits, tight pastel-coloured velour-looking dresses as well as swimsuits adorned with sea stars and shells defined the collection. It was all done before a starry crowd including Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton, Kardashian mum Kris Jenner and Gucci creative mastermind Alessandro Michele. Superstar model sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid were there too-but to show off the collection to the crowd of buyers, fans and bloggers.
On July 15 the two-decade anniversary came and went for the murder of Versace, who was shot dead on the steps of his
Miami Beach mansion. The gunman, 27-year-old Andrew Cunanan, took his own life days later after an inexplicable crime spree that left at least five dead. "We pay homage to not only (Gianni's) artistic genius but to who he was as a man, and above all, as my brother," Donatella wrote in her notes on the Spring/Summer 2018 collection.
Armani shrugs off global mess
Giorgio Armani's show earlier in the day aimed for the same determined joy, which flew in the face of a world that seems dogged by disaster at the moment-some natural and some man-made.
The clothes he sent down the runway were bright and modern, full of vivid prints and crisp cuts. What was not there was outrage over Donald Trump, fear that North Korea's cold war might get hot and no trace of the carnage left by a string of earthquakes and monster hurricanes.
"It's not because it's a sad moment that I have to make women sad on the runway," the veteran designer told reporters after the show at Teatro Armani. Art with a "capital A", Impressionist paintings-but not one in particular-drove him to create a collection with plenty of flowers, bright silky pinks and lots of sequins. Providing a bit of star power for the 83-year-old's show were Monaco's Princess Charlene and Australian actress Cate Blanchett, who is the face of Armani's Si perfume.
On the catwalk there were plenty of small jackets, short dresses with sloping hemlines and luminous pleated skirts. The models also showed off vertiginous, see-through high heels. Gauzy jacket and trouser suits embellished with bright designs as well as silky green or silver skirts were major themes. They were all part of what the designer's notes called the "sophisticated, linear elegance of the Armani language."
New kid at Cavalli
As ever, the show concluded with the designer emerging briefly from backstage in his trademark working clothes of long-sleeved top and high-tech sweatpants to briefly accept the audience's applause. The show comes just two months after the Armani group announced it would reorganize its brands, concentrating on three core labels and trimming its network of boutiques. The change up was announced in July when Armani confirmed its sales had fallen five percent in the previous year.
Big brands, including Prada, have struggled to find their mojo after revenues across the luxury world were hurt by a slowdown in Asia and currency volatility. Friday was also the big day for British talent Paul Surridge. He made his maiden showing in Milan since being named creative lead at Roberto Cavalli, known for its exotic prints and pioneering the sand-blasted jean look. It was big on slinky monotone dresses with see-through sections, zebra-print trousers and vests as well as flowery, flowing gowns. On the outdoor runway set in a Milan park, there was also some classic evening wear mixing leather and light fabrics, as well as massively oversized chrome-coated sunglasses. "I tried to dig deep to find a new sensuality, which I think is missing in women's fashion today and to try and pioneer a new look as Mr Cavalli did in his origin," Surridge told AFP backstage after his show.
Bottega Veneta inspires happiness
Tomas Maier gave a youthful edge to the new Bottega Veneta collection, infusing the looks with metallic and beaded accents that gave sparkle to a rich color palette of rose, ocean-blue, lilac, moss and denim.
The combined men's and women's show illustrated Maier's careful bridging between heritage and modernity. To underline the point, the creative director invited this generation's supermodels to walk the runway and longtime brand icon Lauren Hutton as an honored guest.
Gigi Hadid rocked the runway in a denim dress covered with silver eyelets and a fringe that flew as she took a corner. Her sister Bella Hadid wore a white version of the same. Kaia Gerber - daughter of supermodel Cindy Crawford - walked in a satiny romper with a crisscross neck under an anorak. Kendall Jenner wore a seafoam green bodysuit under a trench.
The looks were utilitarian with an edge, and their understated colors allowed for easy combining for a lifetime of use. The technical prowess of the fashion house came out in a series of intricate snakeskin patchwork pieces that recalled cathedral stained glass, on jackets, belts, shoes and bags. "Modernity is the way something is made," Maier told reporters backstage. "Modernity is not square and hard. It is how you conceive things and how you make them work." Maier says his focus is on creating happiness, using beautiful colors and emphasizing comfort. "Because things are a little tough for all of us, so we need something in the morning to get us going," the designer said.
Bottega's first supermodel, Lauren Hutton
Lauren Hutton graced the Bottega Veneta front row on Saturday holding a dusty rose version of the purse she memorably clutched in the 1980 film "American Gigolo." By any measure, she is the fashion house's first supermodel. "I picked this purse for Gigolo, not the wardrobes," Hutton said after the show. "I got to pick out all my own clothes back then. I almost always did, because I am so into fashion." Hutton wore a 1940s-style dress with beaded accents. She said she wore a blue version of the same in a 20-page spread that she just shot for "Vogue Italia" under its new editor, Emanuele Farneti. It will be on the newsstands in October.
"Things go so fast (now)!" Hutton said of the quick shoot-to-newsstand turnaround. In that vein, she said she just finished shooting Amy Schumer's movie "I Feel Pretty" in 32 days. "Everything is a different world now for an old granny," she laughs. "But thank God granny's out there! That's important."-Agencies