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People sit at the Umm Kulthum cafe, which opened in 1970 and is named after the late Egyptian Arabic music icon Umm Kulthum, along Al-Rashid Street in the old city of Baghdad.--AFP photos
People sit at the Umm Kulthum cafe, which opened in 1970 and is named after the late Egyptian Arabic music icon Umm Kulthum, along Al-Rashid Street in the old city of Baghdad.--AFP photos

50 years on, Umm Kulthum is still the voice of the Arab world

Half a century after her death, Umm Kulthum’s singular voice still echoes through busy streets in Egypt, across time-worn cafes in Iraq, and in millions of homes from Morocco to Oman. “As long as people listen to music, there will be Umm Kulthum,” said Abu Ahmed, the manager of a Cairo cafe named after the Arab world’s most revered singer.

“She still lives in every song and every note,” he told AFP, adjusting the volume on an antique recorder as visitors to the historic bazaar the cafe is housed in peered in from outside. Sepia-toned photographs of the icon adorn the walls of Abu Ahmed’s cafe, alongside posters from her concerts. As her voice in her most famous ballad, “Enta Omri” (You’re My Life), rose to a crescendo, conversation around a nearby table fell to a hush. “Umm Kulthum is the voice of the nation,” Aya Khamis, 36, whispered as she sipped her tea. On a wooden stall just outside, a vendor laid out tiny figurines of Umm Kulthum and her orchestra.

Each piece was carefully crafted - musicians in sharp suits, miniature renditions of classical instruments the qanun and the oud, and Umm Kulthum herself, with her signature scarf and sunglasses. “These are my bestsellers,” said Shadi Said, 37, holding up a figurine of the singer.

Disguised as a boy

More than 1,000 kilometres (600 miles) away, the same music poured out of Baghdad’s own Umm Kulthum cafe - open since 1970, five years before the singer’s death at 76 plunged the Arab world into mourning. Far away from her state funeral in Cairo, the cafe in Baghdad held its own ceremony for bereaved fans like Iraqi engineer Youssef Hamad. Now 77 and retired, Hamad told AFP he still comes to the same cafe every day to listen to Umm Kulthum’s hours-long concerts.

Another cafe-goer, Khazaal Abu Ali, struggled to put his love for her into words. “She once sang ‘if a day passes without seeing you, it can’t count towards my lifetime’. That is how I feel,” the 83-year-old said, his eyes tearing up. “A day without her voice is a day that is lost.” Born in 1898 in a small Nile Delta village, Umm Kulthum rose from humble beginnings to become the most celebrated voice in the Arab world.

Her father, an imam, recognized her talent early on, but fearing the ire of early 20th-century Egyptian society, disguised her as a boy so she could perform in public. Her full-bodied voice and magnetic presence soon captivated audiences, and in the 1930s, she moved to Cairo. Her music revolutionized Arabic music, as she blended classical poetry with grand orchestral arrangements. But it was her improvisations that made her a legend, feeding off the audience’s energy in a hypnotic exchange, as she stretched and reprised verses.

Western musicians were also mesmerized, with Maria Callas, Robert Plant and Bob Dylan all paying tribute to her. “She is one of my favorite singers of all time,” Dylan once said. More recently, Shakira and Beyonce have sampled her songs.

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