In a NirvanaT-shirt, self-styled "culinary rock star" Gaggan Anand expresses noregrets about killing his golden goose-a two-Michelin-starred Bangkokrestaurant ranked among the best in the world. "Sudden things in life arenot planned, like a hurricane, like a typhoon. It just comes, you deal withit," the 41-year-old told AFP in his loft-style apartment in the Thaicapital, with fridges covering an entire wall, a long dining table, and abookshelf-size pantry.
The imminentclosure Saturday of "Gaggan", where a 25-course meal in a colonialvilla costs 8,000 baht ($270), stunned the culinary scene. Gaggan's shock movesent foodies in a spin as reservations were cancelled. To some it was apuzzling act of self-sabotage, but to the mercurial and blunt Gaggan the movewas hastened by creative necessity after a dispute over shares with businesspartners. "I am tired. I am laughing. I am crying. I AM JUST AHUMAN," he said this week in an emoji-laden Instagram post in which heapologized to customers and said "64 rebels" had walked out with him.
"At the ageof 41 the biggest lesson I learned was never leave anyone behind!!" hewrote, admitting he gets "too emotional sometimes". He told AFP thathis new, more intimate space likely opening in October will host 40 diners perevening, but his ambition remains expansive. "In ten years I will be oneof the greatest chefs of the 21st century. A world star," he said, lookingthrough big black glasses. "Everyyear, at least 20,000 tourists already make the trip to Bangkok to try mycooking."
Lick It Up
A disciple of theCatalan master of molecular cuisine Ferran Adria, Gaggan opened his eponymousrestaurant in 2010 in Bangkok's glitzy business district. Five years later itcatapulted into Asia's fifty best restaurants. In Thailand's 2018 edition ofthe Michelin guide-the first for a country where cheap street food is famous-itnabbed two stars, and this year was fourth-ranked globally in the World's 50Best, a list that received criticism in the past for not being more inclusive.
The hit Netflixshow "Chef's Table" followed Gaggan around the city as he shopped inlocal markets or prepped meals in the kitchen. His secret for success: servingup molecular-or what he calls "progressive"-gastronomy in Asia andrevolutionizing Indian cuisine by introducing Japanese and even South Americaninfluences. Among his creations are foie gras with goat's brains, sphericalyogurt served on a spoon, and an oyster topped with horseradish cream, a dishhe calls "Viagra". For one course customers are also encouraged tolick their plates as the "Kiss" song "Lick It Up" blaresout over speakers.
Share squabble
He hopes to bringthe same unexpected flair to his new venture this time using his full nameGaggan Anand. A former drummer and rock lover, Gaggan likes to listen toNirvana or Red Hot Chili Peppers in the kitchen. "I'm a culinary rock star, an anti-conformist,"he said smiling. Born in 1978 in anunderprivileged part of Calcutta, he began cooking with his mother "whomade simple but incredible dishes". At 18 he enrolled in a hotel school, then set up a meal deliverybusiness.
In 2007,separated from his first wife, he decided to start afresh and came to Thailandwith only "a few hundred dollars". After working at severalrestaurants, he made a snap decision to set up his own after a booze-fuelledevening with friends. He convinced the team at the then-number one restaurant inthe world-Adria's El Bulli in Spain-to take him on as in intern. "I discovered the emotional experienceof cooking: mixes of flavors, textures and incredible techniques, I wanted toapply his revolutionary methods in Asia."
Gaggan's projectwas ascendant for almost 10 years. But the disagreement with business partnersspelled the end. "I wanted to own more shares in the establishment, tohave more control, but my partners have refused," he told AFP. He said onInstagram post he owned a 25 percent minority stake. But in the comingrestaurant, he wrote, his daughter will be the biggest shareholder, "soyou can be sure, my next venture will be driven from love and purepassion."--AFP