An aerial view from Google Map shows Salmiya’s residential district

One of my earliest memories of Salmiya was when my family and I had gone door-to-door singing Christmas carols around the big neighborhood, commonly known as ‘Block 10’. It was a big group of people (around 50) and the caroling tour had gone on for more than five hours. It never seemed that long though cause every house we went to (regardless of religion) made us feel welcome and each flat and building had its own unique charm. Ever since then I’ve associated the place with good memories, and I’m sure there are many others who do the same.

Salmiya doesn’t have the best reputation for many in Kuwait, but it holds a special place in our hearts for those of us who did our schooling here in the last 10 to 15 years. Regardless if you actually went to school in Salmiya, it remained a main hub of social activity. From the numerous pool and gaming parlors to the great variety of cheap eateries scattered around the area. You either hung-out in Salmiya or was called to Salmiya to hang out. For a period of time, there was no escaping that place. For thousands of students, it was the only place to be.

Festivities

Block 10 easily the most populous block of the district, filled with people from India, Pakistan and other sub-continent denizens. It’s little wonder why it is called ‘Little India’ from time to time. And from the moment you walk its streets you can sense it. It really feels like a thick, urban neighborhood, positively brimming with life. During Diwali, the Indian festival of lights, the big sand lot in front of the famous ‘Titanic residential complex’ becomes a concert of sound, light and smoke.

The crowds are enormous and you always came across familiar faces. It is a grand occasion of people bringing their country and customs into another land. Unfortunately over the years, the police have slowly put an end to any sort of big Diwali gatherings and they make sure no fireworks are used. Today, it is a shell of what it once was - a censored, subdued celebration without its soul.

Festivities

Block 10 easily the most populous block of the district, filled with people from India, Pakistan and other sub-continent denizens. It’s little wonder why it is called ‘Little India’ from time to time. And from the moment you walk its streets you can sense it. It really feels like a thick, urban neighborhood, positively brimming with life. During Diwali, the Indian festival of lights, the big sand lot in front of the famous ‘Titanic residential complex’ becomes a concert of sound, light and smoke. The crowds are enormous and you always came across familiar faces. It is a grand occasion of people bringing their country and customs into another land.

Unfortunately over the years, the police have slowly put an end to any sort of big Diwali gatherings and they make sure no fireworks are used. Today, it is a shell of what it once was - a censored, subdued celebration without its soul. Street food Back then when it came to restaurants, ‘Thakkar’ and ‘Amman Bhel-puri’ were easily the most popular. Two competing Indian dabbahs (small Indian cafes’) situated right next to each other. So close in fact, two tables in opposite restaurants could hold a conversation with each other.

Both restaurants had almost identical menus and to be honest most people couldn’t tell the difference. So in truth, the ‘rivalry’ was more partnership than cutthroat business. This definitely contributed to the positive vibes no matter which joint you were sitting in. Now though, Amman is located diagonally across the street from Thakkar and neither dabbah has the same atmosphere it once had. Besides, there are so many imitators all round you won’t know which one to choose from. And if you ask many of the residents, they’ll tell you to go Kuwait City or Hawally for good Indian food.

Extra time in extra class

Indian Salmiya however, is more than its apartment blocks, residents, festivities and restaurants. Many of the streets themselves had their own personality attached to them. I would say that is because of the countless tuitions that students came here for. After school classes or tuitions are still quite popular but when the dreaded ‘Board Exams’ were at their hardest, students were shipped off to tuitions to refine their studies.

Thus most spend an almost equivalent amount of time in tuitions than they did in actual school. We identified the streets by the teachers that lived nearby and we grew accustomed to the areas shortcuts and alleys to make sure we got to tuition on time. Till today, I know Salmiya better than any other district in Kuwait (other than my own living area of course) and you can bet that there are a thousand other students who could claim the same.

Much like those early memories of caroling through the streets, some of my very last memories of school and adolescence also happened here. My school’s board exam center was situated at ICSK (Indian Community School Kuwait), which is right in the heart of Block 10. We went into those exam halls with our hearts beating and bodies tensed with the sun barely up yet and we came out three hours later laughing and relieved with sunlight stinging our sheltered eyes.

After our last exam of our last year of school, exiting that hall was simultaneously strange, joyous and tremendously sad. We had survived the most difficult series of exams we’ve ever had but we also closed this chapter of our lives all at the same time. And even for the students who didn’t have their exams in Salmiya itself, I’m sure they all came back here to celebrate because in those days, there was nowhere else to be. The entire country seemed to exist on those streets. For some, it still does.

By Aakash Bakaya