ShareBy Mahmoud Zakaria
In 1868, A Locher, an American adventurer, embarked on a journey through the Gulf region en route to Iraq. The purpose of his trip was to purchase high-bred horses on behalf of Napoleon III (1852-1870). Locher began his travels in western India aboard the merchant steamer Penang, departing from the port of Mazagaon. The ship journeyed along the coast of Oman, crossed the Strait of Hormuz, and entered the Gulf, making Kuwait its first stop. This marked a historic moment, as it was the first time a steamship docked at Kuwait’s isolated port.
Locher stayed as a guest of Sheikh Abdullah II, the fifth ruler of Kuwait, who governed from 1865 to 1891. In his book ‘With Star and Crescent’, published in 1888 by Aetna Publishing Co in Philadelphia, Locher documented the details of his travels. This account provides a rare and valuable description of the political and social life in Kuwait during the mid-19th century, with the fourth chapter offering an in-depth account of his time in the region. (Edited for clarity)
Arrival and First Impressions
As the Penang entered Kuwait’s harbor, it fired three cannon shots that echoed across the calm waters, drawing the attention of the town’s inhabitants. Crowds quickly gathered on the beach to witness the arrival of the steamer. Locher observed that no boats were floating in the harbor, as most were pulled ashore, their shapes resembling alligators basking under the scorching sun.
Soon, a boat approached the steamer, carrying 10 to 12 armed men, half-naked to the waist. These were the bodyguards of Sheikh Abdullah II, who came to welcome the visitors. The men were dressed in brightly colored Bedouin clothing and armed with a variety of weapons, including long-barreled guns, scimitars and pistols. Upon boarding, Sheikh Abdullah — accompanied by his attendants — was introduced to the captain by a wealthy merchant from Kuwait, believed to be Yusuf Al-Ibrahim, a relative of the Sheikh.
Locher described the Sheikh as a tall, muscular man with a silver beard and intelligent expression. Despite being over eighty years old, he was still energetic and polite. He wore a luxurious silk robe, and a purple mantle embroidered with gold rested over his shoulders. Curious about the vessel, the Sheikh explored the steamer, taking particular interest in its engine. It was the first time he had ever set foot on a steamship. After refreshments, which included strong Arabic coffee and sweets, the Sheikh extended an invitation to the captain and the European passengers to dine and spend the night at his residence. The invitation was warmly accepted.
The Town and People of Kuwait
Upon disembarking, the visitors were met by enthusiastic crowds eager to glimpse the foreigners. Locher noted that many women, especially, seemed to be seeing Europeans for the first time in their lives. Sheikh Abdullah’s residence, a sturdy, square building constructed from bricks, stood near the shore. Once inside, the guests were welcomed into a large saloon, where slaves served fragrant tobacco pipes — narghileh and shattabs — and small gold goblets of strong coffee. Ostrich-feather fans were used to cool the room and drive away flies, while a silver censer filled the air with pleasant incense.
After a brief rest, the guests explored the town under the protection of eight armed guards provided by the Sheikh. Locher described Kuwait as resembling Muscat but cleaner. The town was surrounded on all sides by the arid Dahna Desert, which made the climate extremely hot. Locher observed that there was no greenery within or around the town, save for a small garden in the Sheikh’s courtyard. However, he learned that several oases existed within a thirty-mile radius, serving as vital sources of water and grazing land.
Kuwait’s economy relied heavily on trade, with most supplies such as rice, dates, coffee and barley being imported from Basra. The Kuwaiti baghalas — heavy sailboats carrying up to 250 tons — were the primary vessels used for trade. These boats transported goods such as pearls, frankincense and textiles to and from Basra, Persia and Bedouin tribes in the desert. The town’s camels and white donkeys were renowned throughout the Arabian Peninsula for their endurance and speed.
Kuwaiti women were known for both their beauty and industriousness, excelling in crafts such as knitting, weaving and spinning. Even Turks and Persians regarded Kuwaiti women as the most beautiful along the Gulf coast.
Dinner with the Sheikh
Dinner was served in the traditional Arab style. A fine Indian straw mat was spread over a Persian carpet, forming the dining area. Silver goblets filled with laban (a sour milk drink) were placed on the mat. Locher noted that although no livestock was visible in the town, the laban was likely from camels kept at nearby oases.
The meal consisted of a variety of dishes, including boiled goat, roasted lamb, camel meat, chicken and fish, accompanied by fruits and vegetables imported from Basra. Sheikh Abdullah, following Arab custom, sampled each dish first to assure his guests that the food was safe. Once the formalities were complete, everyone began eating. The Sheikh and his nephew awkwardly used Western utensils, clearly more accustomed to eating with their hands.
After dinner, the guests resumed smoking their pipes and drinking coffee and sherbet. As the evening wore on, the Sheikh invited the visitors to join him on the flat rooftop of his residence. In Kuwait, rooftops served as places to enjoy the cool evening breeze and to sleep under the open sky. From the rooftop, the group observed a variety of scenes: Believers in prayer, couples whispering softly, mothers tending to children and maidens singing plaintive songs. In the distance, travelers on camels and horseback crossed the desert, silhouetted against the glowing horizon.
Departure and Farewell
The visitors spent the night on silken couches under the stars, lulled to sleep by the gentle sea breeze. At dawn, the Sheikh personally woke them to ensure they rose before the sun’s rays could reach their faces, as Arabs believed this could cause severe headaches.
A jollyboat from the steamer waited for the visitors on the beach, signaling it was time to depart. The guests expressed their gratitude to the Sheikh for his hospitality, and the captain promised to recommend Kuwait as a regular stop for future steamers. The Sheikh, standing on the beach with his people, watched until the ship disappeared from view. As a final gesture of respect, the Penang fired three parting cannon shots before leaving the harbor.
