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The sweet taste of Ramadan

Sweets are one of the most important features of Ramadan cuisine in Kuwait, usually devoured after iftar with tea or Arabic coffee. There are many types of desserts held in high acclaim by most Kuwaitis, including luqaymat, baklawa, zalabia, qatayef, sabb al-gafsha, balaleet, Om Ali, mahalbiya, rahash and many more.

For Oum Fahad, she believes her nightly Ramadan iftar feast at the table must be followed by desserts and hot beverages in the main seating area. “We have been doing this for over 30 years. Everything is prepared at least an hour in advance, even starting from noon. Everyone in the kitchen will be working on preparing iftar and dessert afterwards,” she said.

Many also order their desserts online or bring modern Western desserts, which Oum Fahad doesn’t mind. “They can bring whatever they like. I will not stop them, but they must also have some of my dessert!” she asserted. “I cannot fathom some of the new desserts. They are heavy to digest, while my luqaymat are small, and you can stop before having to feel full,” she added.

Luqaymat is a staple of Oum Fahad. It is made of flour, sugar, and sweet syrup, which, after stirring over heat, becomes red. It was previously named luqmat al-qadhi (the judge’s piece), from which it is derived. It was made in the 13th century in Baghdad and spread among Arabs, and to the Turks and Greeks afterwards. “However, some days, I like to surprise everyone with sabb al-gafsha, which is very similar to luqaymat, but it is a little bigger and takes the shape of the stirrer I am using,” Oum Fahad said.

Baklawa also has its place in Oum Fahad’s Ramadan routine, which has its roots going back to the pre-Ottoman Empire, spreading during the 18th century. The oldest documented mention of baklava dates back to the kitchen notebooks of Top Kapi Palace, during the reign of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror. It is a pastry mixed with nuts and usually served with syrup.

Mahalbiya is made on occasions and not every day. “It is a milk-based sweet. I make some with nuts on top as garnish and others are left plain, because most of the little ones do not like nuts with sweets. Without these sweet staples on every Ramadan night, the holy month just would not feel the same,” Oum Fahad said, indicating that the habit has been passed down for generations.

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